Muscadines! Mushrooms! Melons!

Blog, Farming

Muscadines! Mushrooms! Melons!

No Comments 22 January 2010


It’s been a little while since I’ve posted. Things have been very busy. We are working on building a new barn, and getting land cleared, aside from the day-to-day workings on the farm and all the seeds that need to be sown. Still, it’s quieter than the spring and summer, so I suppose I should be grateful.

We went through some insanely cold weather a week ago. The temperature dropped into the teens one night. Everything in the high tunnel managed just fine,  and I brought the tomato seedlings (now nearly ready to transplant) inside for a few days to keep warm.

High tunnel harvest began a few weeks ago; meager as it was, having planted as late as I did. We’ve harvested arugula, mizuna, and various lettuces. Mesclun was a total fail-bot. I bought a seed mix from Johnny’s, and everything germinated, but by the time the lettuce in the mix was ready to harvest the mizuna and mustard were freaking huge. So much for baby salad greens, next time I’ll sow the ingredients separately at different times.

The tomato seedlings had a rough time of it due to my utter stupidity. Hardening them off completely slipped my mind, and they got sunburned their first day in the great outdoors. One week later and they are recovering nicely, but still look like they’ve been through hell and back. A few times.

I planted a row of muscadine grapes! I got the plants from Just Fruits and Exotics nursery in Flordia, and was impressed with the quality of the plants and  the customer service. I planted them in a freshly tilled row mixed with manure, and built a very simple single wire trellis across some metal t-posts. The row is nearly 200ft long, but that only translates to a  handful of plants as muscadines are spaced 20 feet apart in the row. I bought a variety of varieties (hehe), spanning the muscadine color and size spectrum.

I love mushrooms! I want so badly to grow them, especially after visiting a local commercial mushroom farm- Red Hill Farm in Independence, La. A friend of mine is working there, and took me over to scope the place out. It’s a very old mushroom farm that was abandoned years ago, and when the current owners inherited the property they decided to get it started again. The growing house was a spooky place in some respects, very dark and industrial, made of cinder blocks. The individual grow rooms were awesome. Trays upon trays stacked on top of each other from the floor to over head height; filled with compost and, depending on the stage of the room in question, mushrooms in various stages of development. The compost they shipped in from out of state, already inoculated with the mushroom spawn. They simply open the bags, place them in racks in the temperature and moisture controlled rooms, and wait. They had a room dedicated to a large steamer that had pipes going to all the grow rooms. After each batch of mushrooms was picked, the room was steamed cleaned to kill any molds or contaminants. Here’s a few pictures:

I’m trying again to grow mushrooms inside.  The sawdust/hydrogen peroxide method was a a complete fail and they all became contaminated after a few days. This time I’m trying to grow them on straw sterilized in our chicken scalder. I stuffed as much straw as I could into a laundry bag and steeped it in 150F water for an hour. I then mixed the spawn into it on a clean table and bagged the result. The spawn has started to run in the bags, so hopefully I’ll have some oyster mushrooms in a few weeks! Pics:

I want to grow heirloom melons this year. The wildest possible. I found a variety from Seed Savers Exchange called Ford Prescott Blanc that looked very interesting. It’s a warty melon, looking almost like some kind of winter squash, but with a crisp orange flesh. I’m also looking to grow Charantais, which is the tastiest French melon I’ve ever had. It’s small, and has an annoying tendency to split at the slightest change in moisture. That’s why I want to grow it in the high tunnel, so I can control the watering myself.

If anyone knows any good melon varieties I haven’t tried, I’d love to hear from you!

First Heirloom Tomato Seedlings

Blog, Farming

First Heirloom Tomato Seedlings

No Comments 22 December 2009

I can’t tell you how weird it feels to sow tomato seeds in December! These seedling will be for the high tunnel. My target for transplanting them into the ground is the beginning of February. The high tunnel is unheated, of course, so if any insanely cold weather comes after February, I’ll be out there with blankets and row cover to try to  keep them from freezing. However, I’m pretty confident the passive heating of the high tunnel will keep it toasty enough. It hasn’t even come close to freezing in there yet. The end result should be ripe tomatoes by mid April or possibly earlier! How awesome would that be? Here’s the list of varieties I have started. They are all heirlooms except for one, and I chose them based on taste and yield.

  • Peron Sprayless- A variety I heard about via the Seed Saver’s Exchange forums. Everyone seemed pretty impressed by the yield and hardiness of this variety, so I gave it a shot.
  • Brandywine OTW- released by Dr. Carolyn Male and Dr. Craig LeHoullier, A celebrated strain of the ever-popular Brandywine. Considered the best Brandywine by many, I have yet to taste it for myself.
  • Stump of the World- I know very litte about this variety. Tomato Growers says it’s very productive, and the name is freakin awesome. So I’m giving it a shot.
  • Rose de Berne- A very pretty, light colored tomato by all accounts.  Never tried this one before either.
  • Russian 117- An heirloom oxheart variety. Gotta love oxhearts.
  • Orange Russian 117- Same as above but with a beautiful bi-color red/orange pattern.
  • Black Krim- For whatever reason, black tomatoes seem to do very well here. I grew this one last year and loved it’s vigor and tasty fruits, but honestly it wasnt a big seller at the market.
  • Giant Belgium- Free packet that came with the order. No idea.
  • Big Beef- We grew this variety at my friend Luther’s farm while I was apprenticing there this spring. It was very popular with customers. It is a hybrid however.

My goal is to save seeds from all these varieties (minus the hybrid).  I’ll be building screened in cages that will cover some of the plants along the row. I will have to hand pollinate those.

Spinosads…..an Organic Insecticide?

Farming

Spinosads…..an Organic Insecticide?

No Comments 31 August 2009

This year I planted a lot of fall tomatoes for market. Having experienced a great deal of worm problems in fall tomatoes in past years I decided to start this venture prepared, so I ordered a bottle of Monterey Garden Insect Spray. Made with a somewhat recently “discovered” ingredient called “spinosads”

Spinosads are a class of soil dwelling bacteria labelled Saccharopolyspora spinosa. Biological warfare, if you will. Like BT.

To quote the standard repository of all knowledge and wisdom (Wikipedia):

“Spinosad (spinosyn A and spinosyn D) are a new chemical class of insecticides that are registered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency‎ (EPA) to control a variety of insects. The active ingredient is derived from a naturally occurring soil dwelling bacterium called Saccharopolyspora spinosa, a rare actinomycete reportedly collected from soil in an abandoned rum distillery on a Caribbean Island in 1982 by a scientist on vacation[1] . It has not been found in nature since that time, and was subsequently described as a new species. The bacteria produce compounds (metabolites) while in a fermentation broth. The first fermentation-derived compound was formulated in 1988. Spinosad has since been formulated into insecticides that combine the efficacy of a synthetic insecticide with the benefits of a biological pest control organism.”

Anywho…Sure enough after the plants set fruit, the hornworms came with a vengeance, and while my back was turned had defoliated several plants. So I pulled out the bottle and gave it a go. Surprisingly, for a not terribly popular organic insecticide, it worked great! I sprayed at dusk (while the bees weren’t hanging around), and the next morning I was rewarded with the sight of brown, shrivelled hornworms, either on the ground or hanging limply from the leaves. Like this dude:

hornworm

Awesome right?

Yes, in a way, and while it was nice to have a cure-all for my trouble it was a bitter-sweet victory. And I probably won’t use it again on my fall tomatoes unless I absolutely have to. While, for insecticides, it’s pretty mild, and is OMRI listed and completely usable for Organic production.  It’s still highly toxic to bees and wasps. Less so to other beneficials. But, even that’s not so bad if you take into consideration the results of this study:

Although spinosad has low toxicity to most beneficial insects, initial acute laboratory tests indicated that spinosad is intrinsically toxic to pollinators. The hazard of spinosad to bees was evaluated using a tiered approach. Initial acute laboratory exposures were conducted, followed by toxicity of residues of spinosad on treated foliage, greenhouse studies to assess acute as well as chronic toxicity, confined field assessments, and finally full field studies using a variety of crops under typical use conditions. These data were used to assess the potential of adverse effects on foraging bees following the use of spinosad. This research has clearly demonstrated that spinosad residues that have been allowed to dry for 3 hr are not acutely harmful to honeybees when low-volume and ultralow-volume sprays are used. Further, glasshouse and semifield studies have demonstrated that dried residues are not acutely toxic, and although pollen and nectar from sprayed plants may have transient effects on brood development, the residues do not overtly affect hive viability of either the honeybee or the bumblebee. Field studies in which typical application methods of spinosad were used on a variety of crops have demonstrated that spinosad has low risk to adult honeybees and has little or no effect on hive activity and brood development. The collective evidence from these studies indicates that once spinosad residues have dried on plant foliage, generally 3 hr or less, the risk of spinosad to honeybees is negligible.

So why a bitter-sweet victory then? I sprayed at dusk, when no pollinators were out. I probably didn’t hurt a fly, especially since I sprayed pretty lightly anyway.

All the same, Organic farming and gardening is about prevention, not spraying the heck out of stuff. Products like the one I used are something you don’t want to grow to depend on. Still, it worked, and I’m glad I purchased it. Definitely a good thing to have on hand for bad times. You can get it here .


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I'm a 20-something guy passionate about farming and living sustainably. I live and work on a small farm where we grow vegetables, fruits, and free range chicken for local markets and restaurants. Life rocks.

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